From Vine to Bottle

 

Last Thursday  was a  terrific day!  I was invited to attend the bottling session at Spangler Vineyards in Winston.  A number of Spangler wines were ready for the final step in the process of turning fruit to wine and the bottling truck had been ordered for the day. 

Some wineries have their own bottling equipment but many especially smaller wineries where winery space is at a premium opt to hire a bottling truck when the time comes for this important step.  This mobile assembly line is housed in the back of a big truck  that can be driven to any winery location at any time. Contained inside is the equipment necessary for getting the wine into the bottles, the corks inserted, the capsules on top (that’s the foil that covers the top and neck of the bottle) and the labels adhered to the front and back of each bottle.

I arrived late morning and by the time I got there things were well on their way.  Volunteers were scattered about in the truck along the assembly line each with one job assignment. Some were responsible for putting a cork atop each bottle and others were packing the completed bottles into cases while others were sealing the boxes and stacking them on to pallets.  I could not help envision that famous I Love Lucy episode where she and Ethel are working in the candy factory and the assembly line starts to speed up way beyond their ability to keep up. Candy is flying and Lucy and Ethel are in a panic! Of course nothing like that occurred this time and I am happy to report everything appeared to go off without a hitch.

After I spent some time witnessing the well orchestrated bottling, Pat Spangler was able to slip away for a bit and we ended up in the tasting room to try a few wines.  I am a huge fan of Pat’s wines.  Big, bold well rounded reds and lovely, well finessed, fruity whites.  I so appreciate the attention given to subtle oak and in some cases as in his Chardonnay, no oak at all.  Pat is a master blender and over the years honed his craft of bringing just the right wines together in just the right amounts to really take them to a world class level.  The medals, awards and accolades his wines realize are too numerous to mention here but are evidence of his talents.  I went home with Malbec, Petite Sirah, Cab Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and his beautiful Sauvignon Blanc.

And to top off the wonderful time spent at Spangler Vineyards, my husband and I had another terrific experience.  Needing lunch and wanting to try something new we stopped at the new Indian restaurant, Flavors of India, located right by Big Lots in Roseburg.   With the guidance of both Jessica our delightful waitress and Raghu owner/chef we ordered several different dishes and each one was excellent.  We had enough left over for dinner that night so we were able to take our delicious day into the evening.

I can not tell you how happy I was to hear of an Indian restaurant opening here.  Growing up and living in a more diverse area finding restaurants featuring foods from all over the world was as almost as easy as finding a Mc Donalds.  And I took advantage of the availability of such culinary diversity by making Vietnamese, Korean, Indian,Thai and Japanese foods, mainstays in my diet. For me I feel very much about food as I do about wine.  Variety is the spice of life.  We certainly have that in our wines.  So glad to see us moving in that direction with our restaurants.

Wine or Weddings?

Most of us have never really given much thought to winery zoning and all that these regulations entail.  We visit a winery to taste wine or to attend an event  and we enjoy the uniqueness of the winery setting often as much as we enjoy the uniqueness of the wines. But for some, the consideration of what constitutes wine related business and farm use and how different wineries are adhering to the zoning laws has weighed heavily on their minds.

It seems there has been much confusion within the winery industry over what types of events Oregon wineries are legally allowed to host and what percentage of a winery’s revenue can come from non wine events such as weddings and parties. So last week the Oregon legislature passed the bill 1055 which will bring uniformity to a patchwork of local and state regulations spelling out what events are allowed at wineries and how much nonwine sales are permitted. 

Over the years farm and environmental groups  have expressed concern that events such as weddings and concerts were not part of exclusive farm-use zoning.  The worry was that as the wine industry grows and the popularity of the winery setting as a venue for all sorts of different gatherings - many unrelated to winemaking or grape growing -would quickly begin to erode the specific intent of exclusive-farm-use zoning.

In working on the bill, wine growers said they wanted to preserve the time-honored nature of rural vineyards and wineries and prevent them from becoming event centers, yet also provide opportunities for creating a sustainable bottom line.

All three interests — agriculture, environmental and wine growers — had  a say in crafting the bill which defines "incidental activity" at wineries as private events that promote the sale of its wines. It also limits sales of catered food and nonwine items to 25 percent of on-site retail wine sales.

I think it is a good thing to have clarification on the subject and it sounds like the bill was a darn good compromise between all those with an interest in the outcome.  No doubt there will be wineries who will take issue with the restrictions.  Some of the bigger, more commercial and corporate owned wineries who depend heavily on the revenue generated from events but are not zoned for commercial/tourism,  will certainly have to make changes. But for those vintners who are truly committed to the craft and art of winemaking this will have little to no affect.  Especially here in the Umpqua Valley where our family owned wineries devote their time to the production of quality wine and not to the production of…productions!  Here in our magical world of the small winery and the hands on winemaker, wine life continues on just as before.  And we like it that way!

 

To Pinot or Not to Pinot…?

I couldn’t help but smile a bit at a recent article written about the big scandal over Gallo’s Red Bicyclette “pinot noir” which turned out to not be so pinot after all. Seems Gallo’s French suppliers of the supposed pinot sold them red table wine that was only partly pinot with merlot and syrah added but at a pure pinot price, more than doubling their profits.
And absolutely no one complained or had a clue until the customs department realized the pinot being exported far exceeded the total amount of wine that the region produced. Gallo was completely unaware of the scam and had nothing to do with tricking the wine public. They were duped into believing the bulk wine they purchased to be as it was touted, pure, high quality pinot noir from the Languedoc region of France.
So why would this story make me smile? Gallo marketed this wine as a wine their company was intensely involved in the making of. They referred to it as a taste of “Southern France” and wrote in detail about the vineyard the grapes were sourced from, the climate of the region and the oak aging and barrel fermentation of the wine as if Gallo wine makers had “hands on” involvement in the “crafting” of this “artisan” wine. When in fact it was actually their complete lack of involvement in the making of the wine that made it clear they were not involved in the charade! And while it is sad to hear of a lack of integrity in the wine world it does not come as any surprise. This is not the first time wine has been manipulated or misrepresented and will certainly not be the last. Nor am I surprised by the misrepresentation and the artistic license Gallo took when writing their marketing material for this particular wine. Self promotion as family owned, hands on vintners is standard practice by corporate wineries world wide.
And what turned the smile on my face to an all out grin was when I read that in their defense, the French wine makers said that the Americans with their gauche wine palettes did not even notice the difference. One attorney stated not a single American consumer complained. And this is absolutely true! Not only did no one complain, this wine won high praise from different wine judges, not only Americans mind you and was thought to be a terrific pinot for $9!
This whole debacle says so much more to me then what it looks like at face value: opportunistic business men decide to rip off an unsuspecting big corporation who will probably never know the difference. It reeks of arrogance. Arrogance too often found in the world of wine. And not just on the part of the French, but on the part of corporate wineries as well with their disingenuous, self promotion of hands on wine making not even close to what the reality is or was. It also suggests something else quite unfortunate. Americans in their all consuming quest for high quality wine at table wine prices have set up the perfect climate to be taken advantage of. A high quality pinot noir from a world class wine region would be difficult if not impossible to make and sell for under $10 and still afford a profit to the wine maker. So why not label and drink this Red Bicyclette as a fairly priced, French red table wine and enjoy! No arrogance here!

Spring is in the Air

With spring just around the corner it is time once again when plans for the annual Barrel Tour are in full swing. The Barrel Tour is an event that boasts a long history, 26 years and going strong, and has become to symbolize the kick off of wine season here in the Umpqua Valley.

So in a new year coming off recent press of our area being the number 5 destination for U.S. wine travelers and with Sunset Magazine calling us (Southern Oregon to be exact) the next Napa Valley, I can not help but feel an overwhelming desire for an event like this to really develop into the high end wine experience you would expect when visiting a world class wine region. To see our signature events take themselves a bit more seriously and gear themselves less toward the “partier” and more toward the wine interested attendee.

For those who read this column on a regular basis you are probably well aware that no one enjoys a party more than me. I just feel strongly there is a time and place for everything and just maybe, we could take this wonderful tradition of our barrel tour and bring it to the next level! I would love to see the barrel tour expand into a two or three day weekend event. Perhaps we could even have barrel samples at every winery so those attending for the first time would feel like there was some validity to the name. There is very little that excites wine lovers as much as the opportunity to taste young wine from the barrel! Event goers would transport themselves in their own vehicles and on their own schedule to each winery. This would create the feeling of a relaxed, gentile pace more conducive to the true wine experience and would allow for winery personnel and the wine makers to truly connect with their guests in a more meaningful way. Visitors would be able to choose the wineries they wanted to visit and would have two or three days to fit it all in. Having the time to truly experience each winery visit and their particular uniqueness supports those wine interested folks who are looking to expand their wine horizons. People who make wine a regular part of their lives will come away with not just a good time but will have a better understanding of what the Umpqua Valley has to offer. Those attendees desiring a party could hire a designated driver or a limo and party away. I think it is safe to say the turn out for an event like this may initially be less in numbers, but with the focus on quality and not quantity this type of event would grow quickly. For the host wineries as well as for those attending, I have no doubt having a few less people overall but with more people serious about wine appreciation, this type of tour would be a win win for all. Not to mention by spreading the event over two or three days encourages those from out of the area to stay for a while and support other businesses during their time here.

I am hugely respectful of the many years of the barrel tour event and give kudos to those who through the last two and a half decades have worked hard to keep this tradition intact and going strong. My experiences living and traveling other world class wine regions just makes me aware of areas we can improve and what we compete against. Taking away best practices from other high end, highly regarded wine events is smart and is how we will continue to live up to our expanding reputation. A reputation we no doubt deserve and one that will continue to grow if we keep raising the bar…

A Little Spanish Flare!

The most exciting part to exploring a new wine region is coming across wines and varietals that are new to you. Until moving to Roseburg, I had never tasted Tempranillo and had only heard of it maybe once or twice. Coming from a wine region where the grape is not widely planted, I was intrigued by its popularity here and how that all came to be.
Tempranillo is a variety of black grape widely grown to make full-bodied red wines in its native Spain. It is the main grape used in Rioja, and is often referred to as Spain's "noble grape". In the last 100 years it has been planted in South America, South Africa, Australia, the US and Canada. Tempranillo wines can be consumed young, but the most expensive and highly coveted are the ones are aged in oak for several years. The wines are deep ruby red to almost purple in color, with aromas and flavors of berries, plum, tobacco, vanilla, leather and herbs.
Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word temprano meaning "early" which is suggestive of the grapes early ripening characteristic. The fact that it flourishes in cooler climates and at higher altitudes is the biggest reason it is not prolific in most parts of California and why it does so well here in the Umpqua Valley. Earl Jones of Abacela Winery can be credited for figuring all this out. It was his love of Spanish Tempranillo and the wines ability to pair beautifully with so many of the foods Earl enjoyed most, that led him on his quest to find just the right spot to grow this grape. After much research and deliberation Earl and his wife Hilda moved to the Umpqua Valley and started growing Tempranillo being the fist to introduce this grape to Oregon!
At this time there are only a handful of local wineries producing it as a stand alone varietal. Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, Delfino Vineyards, Chateau Nonchalant and Abacela Winery. All of these wineries grow and produce several different varieties but at Abacela, Tempranillo is their main focus. And this focus has paid off big with so many awards and accolades for so many of their Tempranillo’s it is impossible to list them all. The most prestigious award by far was taking gold at last April’s Tempranillos al Mundo competition. This competition considered “the world series” of Tempranillos was held in Stockholm Sweden and judged by Spanish and international wine judges. The gold medal Abacela received was the only gold medal awarded to any Tempranillo produced outside of Spain! Certainly Abacela Winery is not new to very prestigious awards, most notably with their Albarino (another Spanish variety) and their Reserve Syrah receiving high praise and points from well respected wine periodicals, but this gold for their Tempranillo was the fulfillment of their dreams.
To have committed vintners living here realizing their dreams is the magic that makes our region so special. As the Umpqua Valley strives for the understanding and respect we so deserve, receiving awards in the international arena are tremendously meaningful. Every recognition of the quality of our local wines moves us one step closer to realizing our potential as “the next big wine region“…

Home is Where the Wine is Made!

Through the years I have had various opportunities to try wine made by amateur wine makers.  You know those people making wine in their garages or basements?  For some well respected wine makers it is the way they began their wine making career.  For many it starts as a hobby and remains just that.  A part time endeavor making wine for personal consumption.
Now you never know what you are going to experience when it comes to tasting homemade wine.  Wine can be made from just about any fruit and through the years I have tasted wines of all different qualities from very good to undrinkable.  Hey, I have had wines from legitimate wineries I found undrinkable.  You just never know and that is part of the excitement of new wine experiences.  So when my husband and I were invited to try some wine made by a local Douglas County resident I was absolutely game.
Dale and his wife Betty are long time area residents and have a small garage at their home devoted to wine.  Dale has been dabbling in wine making for several years and currently makes Baco Noir, Pinot Noir and Merlot with grapes sourced from an established vineyard in the Melrose area of Roseburg.  His “winery” is clean and organized suggesting a promising tasting experience and that is exactly how it shapes up.   We start with the ’09s in the barrel and  finish up with some ‘08s and ‘07s in the bottle. We even get a taste of Dales pride, an ’01 Merlot.  By the third barrel sample it is obvious to my husband and me, Dale knows what he is doing and the 15 years he has spent at his hobby has paid off. He is indeed making some quality wine. 
I particularly enjoyed his two pinots that included wine made from grapes off a 777 clone.  These two pinots had bright fruit flavors combined with floral and earthy nuances and were delightful.  Dales ‘07 Merlot was a lighter bodied Merlot packed with flavor and very well balanced.  The two Baco’s were also lighter bodied with classic Baco flavors of  deep, black fruit, anise and spice.  Very nice and again very well balanced.  Frankly, both my husband and I were quite impressed. Our thoughts were very simply, that these wines were better then some wines we have paid to taste at various wineries in our life time!
I would have loved to encourage Dale to go “pro” and start selling his wines and even start a winery.  You know me…when I taste good wine I just can’t help but want everyone to have the same experience.   But it doesn’t appear Dale and Betty are interested in taking his obvious abilities to the next level.  But tasting Dale’s quality wine got me and my husband thinking.  How many other home wine makers are out there making quality juice? How many more Dales are out there, right now under our noses making wine too good to be missed?  In an area like ours rich with wine history and great grapes there has to be more.  So we have started a home wine makers group called UmpquaValleyVinophiles(http://groups.google.com/group/umpquavinophile)
in hopes of flushing out other talented home wine makers.  If  you’re out there let us know.  Lets get together and talk wine…

Time to Up the Ante!

For those of you who think I am a tad overly optimistic and excited about our areas potential as a highly regarded wine region, I must draw your attention to yet one more validating piece of publicity. The January issue of Sunset Magazine (yes thee Sunset Magazine) printed a story on the Southern Oregon AVA and in their words called it “The next big wine country: Southern Oregon!”

While the article had some inaccurate information regarding location of some of the wineries i.e.: putting Abacela in the Applegate Valley and reporting Jacksonville was part of the Umpqua Valley, the message was very clear. The exciting wines, no crowds and inexpensive tasting fees made it a top destination choice for wine tourists. How proud our wineries must feel to have a publication with the readership and prestige of _Sunset Magazine _report so clearly what so many of us know to be true!

I can’t help but notice within the story and within the responses to the article on their web site (Sunset.com, search for Southern Oregon), Josephine County and the Rogue and Applegate area received more enthusiastic comments then Douglas County and the Umpqua Valley. A number of tourists wrote in on their love for Jacksonville with the great restaurants, and bars, the Britt Theater and the culture and intrigue of the downtown area. Out of 22 comments on the article 14 expressed a love for Jacksonville. This appreciation and love for this area was voiced by people from Napa, Portland and San Francisco. Unfortunately, there was not one response from travelers expressing their love of Roseburg and the Umpqua Valley.

To me, even with my sometimes overly passionate feelings about my home town of Roseburg I know why there is not the enthusiasm for our area their could be. And why Josephine County and the Rogue AVA receives more committed wine travelers then we do. Simply put they have done a better job of growing and promoting their towns with business and events that tie in beautifully with wine interested travelers making for a total experience. Jacksonville boasts great wine & wineries, excellent restaurants, hip wine bars and shops and interesting boutiques. This is all combined with cultural events held at the theater as well as other events geared to the sophisticated consumer such as those who travel for wine! As a town who’s biggest cultural event is our Graffiti Days, Roseburg is a bit behind the times when it comes to offering supportive events for the more discerning tourist.

Douglas County has it all with the our rivers and unspoiled natural beauty, our historic downtown and excellent wines and beautiful wineries. We just need to bring it all together with higher quality dinning choices, better night life options and more interesting cultural events. We have the great wine, unfortunately wine travelers need and want more. I see progress in this area and know it is just a matter of time before a true vision for our county as a wine destination comes into focus. And when it does we will all benefit from it.

P.S.  Today is the Girl on Grapes birthday!  Cheers!